To Darwin by Dirt

There were just so many great places and experiences it is really hard to say what was the best.  however to help those thinking of a similar adventure here are the winners of the Trip Logies.

Best Rock Formation

Runner Up: Chambers Pillar
Runner Up: Day 24 - Olgas
Runner Up: Day 26 - Devils Marbles
Runner Up:  Day 43 - Lost City
Runner Up: Day 19 - Gosses Bluff
Winner:  Day 23 - Uluru



Best Gorge:
Runner Up:  Day 48 - Lawn Hill
Runner Up: Day 19 - Redbank Gorge
Runner Up: Day 17 - Ellery Creek
Runner Up: Day 17- Serpentine Gorge
Runner Up: Day 18 - Ormiston Gorge
Winner: Day 22 - Kings Canyon

Best camp fire: 

Runner up: Day 4 - Darling River

Runner up: all of the others   

Winner: Day 17 - hexi fire at Ormiston Gorge



Best sunrise:
Runner up: Day 13 - sunrise over windmill
Runner up: Day 24: sunrise over Uluru
Runner up: Day 7 - sunrise over Waukaringa Ruins
Winner: Day 5 - Pamamaroo Lake 



Best sunset:
Runner up: Day 24 - unset over Olgas
Winner: Day 23 - sunset over Uluru

Most isolated camp:  

Runner up: Day 6 - Waukariga Ruins

Winner: Day 51 - somewhere between Boulia and Birdsville

Most claustrophobic camp site: 

Winner: Day 23 - Uluru 

Coldest night: 

Runner up: Day 16 - Alice Springs

Winner: Day 25 - Alice springs

Warmest night: 

Winner: Day 38 - Darwin

Best Pub:
Runner up:  Day 49 - Barkly hotel Mt Isa
Runner Up: Day 40 - Gove hill pub
Runner up:  Day 3:  Tilpa Pub
Runner up: Day 27 - Daly Waters Hotel
Winner:  Day 52 - Birdsville Hotel

Best paid camp site facilities: 

Winner: Day 28 - Nitmaluk NP - Katherine Gorge, bar, pool, buffet breakfast it had it all

Worst paid campsite facilities: 

Runner up: Day 49 - Sunset Caravan Park  . But this is the Isa

Winner: Day 5 - lake side caravan park Broken hill - unpowered camp sites next to the road amongst the weeds and rubbish

Most uncomfortable camp site: 

Winner: Day 32 - Merl thanks to mosquitoes

Most anoying insects:

Runner up: Day 11 - flies On the Oodnadatta

Winner: Day 32 - mozzies at Merl and Ubirr 

Most annoying camper: 

Winner: Day 22: Kings Creek station couple with their brand new Kimberly camper who played DVDs all night and when asked to turn down their loud music responded with "why?". If that was you and you are reading this blog you are obviously new to the world of camping so here is the answer -"because people who camp come to escape the noise, it annoys all the other campers and is bloody rude!"

Best meal: 

Runner up: Day 39 -  fish and prawns at the boat club Darwin 

Runner up : Day 49 - steak at the Isa hotel

Winner: everything in the camp over - roast and vegis

Most expensive fuel: 

Runner up: Roper Bar at $2.25/lt

Winner: kings canyon resort at $2.33/lt  

Worst Road:
Runner Up: Day 12 - road to Mt Dare - gibbers
Winner:  Day 13 - road from Finke to Alice  !!!!!



Best 4WD track:
runner up: Day 8 - track across Gammon Ranges
Runner up: Day 20 - track in to Palm Valley
Runner up: Day 43 - tracks in Lorella Springs
Runner up: Day 41 - track to Twin Falls
Winner: Day 53 - Walkers crossing

Best Water Crossing:
Runner up: Day 44 - Crocodile Spring
Runner up: Day 36 - Reynolds river track
Winner: Day 41 - crossing to Twin Falls

Most memorable moment:

Far to many but I will give it a go:

1. Day 33: Children at Arnhem Land.  We spent the most relaxing couple of hours playing with the little aboriginal kids.

2. Day 50: Rodeo at Quamby.  This is what the outback is all about.  Cowboys, bulls, horses, dust. 

3. Day 43: Nude swim at Nannys retreat.  This magic waterhole was at Lorella Springs and was so idyllic I just had to get back to nature.

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Number of km traveled: 13,646km

Number nights away: 56

    - Number nights with family: 24

    - Number nights with Chris and Jay:  19

    - Number of nights with the Huxley family: 14
    - Number of nights on the boys leg of trip: 16

Longest driving distance in a day:  641km   Day 51: 10,720-11,361 - Quamby to somewhere near Birdsville

Fuel efficiency average:  14.51 lt/100km

Most expensive fill:  $232.01   (16 July 131.9 lts at $1.759/lt)

Most expensive price per lt: 

- $2.33/lt 28 June Kings Canyon (highway robbery)

- $2.25/lt 17 June Roper Bar (at least this place is more remote)

Number animals hit:

   - 1 emu

   - 1 lizard

   - 41,358 bugs 

Number of road trains we overtook: only 1 - well done Kathy

Number of road trains we passed: a lot!

Number of times i got stuck: 2
    - once in sandy river bed - winched out
    - once on Big Red - maxtrax to the rescue

Wheel punctures: 1 

   - 1 wheel change on car due to a chunk out of rubber in tyre - changed as precaution

    - 1 flat on car from spike on Oodnadatta - repaired on side of road
   (good news is that i didn't need the tyre carcass. is it necessary - probably not.  Would i take it again - definitely) 

Damage or things that broke: 5
  We were very lucky with only very minor things.

The white powdery snow blanketed the rolling hills. Snow flakes hung to the pine needles their crystals glistening in the sunlight.  Sheep huddled together protecting themselves from the icy breeze cutting through the air. Little children in the gum boots stomped through the white wonderland in amazement.

No this was not a scene from the snowy mountains but our welcome home.

We woke to a brisk morning and was already missing the warm weather of the north. The outside temperature reading in the car struggled to rise over 4 deg C as we left for home.  Eventually reaching Bathurst we were brutally reminded of winter again as we drove through the fine covering of snow over the hills.

We had an extremely strong desire to turn the car around and head north.  I wonder what Cape York is like at this time of year?  But the pull of family was stronger.

Pulling in to the street, flashes of all the adventures we have had in the last couple of months flooded back.  But I will leave some reflective thoughts to a future post. I was now just looking forward to the bright faces of the kids and the loving embrace of Kathy. As we weren't expected to be home until tomorrow I was greeted with the biggest squeal from Bethany.  Welcome home.

Leaving Currawinya National Park the intention for today was to make it to Nyngen. The dirt road was in reasonable condition for most of the way allowing us to pass quickly through small one horse towns such as Yantabulla and Fords Bridge.  We soon reached the dog fence and crossed the border back in to NSW. The trip was coming to an end.

Before leaving on this trip there were certain statistics I wanted to keep a record of.  Things such as most expensive fuel, best camp site etc.  I also jokingly commented about the number of kangaroos I hit.

Luckily, unless tomorrow changes things, I have not gone anywhere near hitting one.  Unfortunately the same can't be said for the other animal on our coat of arms.  Yesterday I commented on the kamakaze emus darting along the road in front of us.  Well it turns out NSW emus are obviously not as smart as those in Queensland.  Heading along the road a dark object appeared from out of the bushes on the left of the car.  The emu in mid stride saw the car and in a moment of indecision it will regret decided to try to stop and turn. As I hit the breaks the next thing I knew was a cloud of feathers and the unmistakeable thud on the front bullbar followed by that speed hump feeling.  I knew this was not going to turn out good for one of us.

Looking in the rear mirror a motionless lump sat in the middle of the road.  Luckily there was no damage to the car or trailer despite the signs of impact on numerous parts. My only consoling thought was the circle of life would continue, where the numerous eagles and hawks feasting off road kill we had seen previously just got another feed.

Reaching Bourke there were other tell tale signs our trip was coming to an end.  Most noticable we saw the last of the dirt roads and were finally back on to the black top for good.  These even had strange white lines down the middle that I had forgotten about. With more people on the road  I tried to continue the one finger wave to passing travellers but I had obviously reached the threshold were this was no longer done. The weather also changed with large clouds forming in the sky and a strong cool wind blowing. We moved in to low rolling hills with the surrounding vegetation turning green and crops of yellow conola lining the road. 

While we were expecting to take another 2 days, the pull of home was strong so deciding to try to make Sydney tomorrow night we pushed on to Narromine and found our last bush camp and camp fire by side of Macquarie River. 

As this was the last night the aim was to use up as much left over food as possible.  We timed our rations much better than Burke and Wills with just enough to see us through.  Tonight was not as extravagant as previous nights but the tins of soup went down even better as we were able to have an extra beer that was meant to be for tomorrow night.  We also got extra Tim-Tams which never happens in the our household.

Standing on the banks of the Paroo River with a fishing rod in one hand I have come to the realisation why I enjoy photography so much. I have never understood the desire to spend hours fishing (sorry bro). It may have to do with my limited patience but a fishing rod just spoils a good view.  

But I digress as this morning we woke to the sounds of flocks of Galahs skylarking in the trees enjoying the first rays of sunlight.  The bush camp we stayed at was on old disused bore with the remnants of an old water trough still trickling water.  While no longer providing water to cattle it was a magnet to surrounding wildlife.

Leaving camp we made our way south heading towards Hungerford on the NSW/Queensland Border.  Part of this road travels along a large wire fence that was initially installed in an attempt to keep the Queenslanders from trying to enter NSW (or so I have been told).  However it was later put to better use keeping the dingoes out to protect the sheep country of the north.

The fence also has the unintended consequence of being a barrier to other animals such as emus, kangaroos and cattle.  As you hurtle along the dirt track kamikaze emus who are caught between the road and fence throw themselves in front of the vehicle legs going in all directions. Luckily this road is not well travelled - we could ount the number of cars on our fingers with out taking shoes off - so we spent much of the trip weaving all over the road.

Arriving at Currawinya National Park, famous as a Ramsar Wetland site due to its importance for migratory birds, we headed straight out to the lakes.  Lake Numalla is an immense brown soup that extends as far as they eye can see.  Unfortunately the birds must have decided that soup was not on the menue as there were none to be seen.  This must have been a disappointment for a twitcher who was there with the biggest monocular - unless there was a nudist beach on the other side of the lake i was not aware of.

We then headed to Lake Wyara which is also meant to be a significant spot for wading birds but due to the drought conditions it was dry. 

From here we headed to camp, stopping on the way at an old woolshed.  Standing inside, the dust flecks shimmered in the light, the sound of corrugated iron echoing through the empty shed.  This is in marked contrast to the noise that must have been here as hundreds of sheep baahing would have been only just audible over the humming of the motors running the old shearing wheels.

Getting to camp, we set up on the top of the bank of the Paroo River.  Deciding not to fish today ( I just remembered the earlier advice) we sat and enjoyed one of the last fires of the trip along with fresh damper.

Leaving camp we were to continue our trip following the explorers Wills, King, Gray and a bloke who's name begins with B I have temporarily forgotten. 

Arriving at the grave of Robert O'Hara Burke you wander down the path passing stands of magnificent River Red Gums. 

These are old enough to have watched Burke slowly perish on the banks of the Cooper River. This was not from the lack of water, or access to food but a series of poor decisions and a dose of bad luck.

Further along the Cooper Creek we then got to the famous Dig Tree.  This is where, following finally reaching the gulf (less about 20km) and the death of Gray, they were to reach the safety of the support team.  However on arriving at camp 65 they discovered their lifeline had departed leaving them to their fate in the desert.

Having reached the end of their journey, it was almost time for us to end our own.  With only 4 nights left before returning to the big smoke we started to make our way further south.  Finding another bush camp somewhere outside Thargominda we spent the eavening debating the myths and stories of their fateful journey and reliving some of our own.

This morning we were back on the Birdsville Track.  

While this was once a rough difficult journey, the track has become a well maintained connection through to Maree making our travel easy.  However this was only a short reprieve as the plan was to take a less trodden path on the Walkers Crossing heading to Inaminka.  While I was originonally proposing to go via Cardillo Downs which cuts through the centre of the Sturts Stony Desert, the audiobook on Burke and Wills was fascinating so the idea of travelling over some of their path took hold.  The idea of 5 hours on gibbers was not so fascinating.

Walkers Crossing skirts the edge of the Sturts Stony Desert and passes through the Strezeleki Desert.  It is an interesting drive with sections of Gibbers (just enough to remind me this was a good idea coming this way) and white and red sand dunes in ribbons.  In between there are the gnarled eucalypts, acacias and haceas clinging to the sand waiting patiently for the rare rain to rejuvenate them.




 It reminded me of Midnight oils song dead heart

We don't serve your community,

Don't serve your king,

Know your custom,

Don't speak your tongue,

White man came took everything.

Da, do, do, do, do, do, do

Rob Hurst, the bands drummer, supposedly wrote the do, do, do, after listening to the knock of the axle on the toyota landcruiser as it crossed the central Australian desert.  After this trip I can relate to it.    

The area is also the location of gas fields with numerous restricted tracks that bulldoze their way through, with little care for what is in front of it.  These wide straight roads are in sharp contrast to the track we are on which is narrow winding in and out of the creek crossings and dunes fitting in to the landscape not fighting against it.

The track crossed the path of Burke and Wills as they headed north. In the comfort a our 4WD it was hard to fully experience the hardship of their journey but I can appreciate being stuck with the same person for an extended period of time and how this can drive a man crazy. 

As we got close to Innamincka we diverted to see Wills grave and where King was found alive. 

Wills died in June 1861 and was originally buried on the Banks of the Cooper River.  Following Burkes death, King stayed wth aboriginal people until he was finally found by Edwin Welch. The more we listened to the full account of the journey the more I learnt about the misguided trip.  While my school boy memories were about Burke being the hero, he was probably the most foolhardy of them all.  I have a new found appreciation for the others in the trip in particular King and the other guy.

With more of the Burke and Wills story tomorrow, we made our way to Innamincka to refuel and - yes - visit the Innamincka Hotel. Innamincka is not much more than a stop over point lacking the real character of other remote towns we have visited.  Either that, or it was the lackluster and uninterested service at both the pub and store that gave me that impression.

So after a quick stop we moved on to Cullyamurra waterhole on the bank of the Cooper Creek. Here we camped under the shade of a Coolabah Tree waiting for the billy to boil and I had to hold by self back from singing a tune.