Having slept through the warmest night so far we woke early to go and watch the tide come in at Cahills Water Crossing, the spot we will cross later in the day to enter Arnhem Land. While there are times where the crossing can be as deep as a metre and the water raising dramatically, we were underwhelmed due to the small tide.  Instead we watched some keen fisherman fish from the crossing. I had the camera ready in anticipation of them catching something larger with sharp teeth and a long snout.

From here we made our way across the river (no where near as exciting as crossing to Twin Falls). 

To enter Arnhem Land you need to prepurchase a permit from the local Land Council.  It comes with strict instruction that you can not stop along the way, you must stay on the main track to Oenpelli and when you arrive you can only visit the Police Station, the park, the servo, shop and Arts Centre.  While this sounds extremely restrictive I appreciate what they are trying to do and we were happy enough with visiting the Injalak Arts Centre.  And surprisingly this turned out to be one of the most memorable parts of the trip.

Crossing into Arnhem Land we were immediately struck with not only the beauty of the place but an almost calming spiritual feeling.  The road passes between a rock escarpment and a lush green wetland with prolific bird life. 

Arriving at the Arts centre we spent some time watching the men do their bark and paper paintings of goannas and fish with intricate stripes and dots painted in red, white and black oca. 

Just as impressive and more labour intensive were the women weaving baskets from pandnas or Jim Jim plant. 

 The arts centre overlooked a magic wetland with whistling kites rising in the thermals overhead and pelicans slowly descending with wings outstretched, their landing gear down, gliding gracefully over the water like a seaplane touching down.

Being such a mesmerising place, and not wanting to return to the blood suckers, we decided to sit under the shade of a tree and have lunch. (Note: on the way through NT we passed several local aborigines sitting undertaken the shade of a tree doing what appeared to be very little. I now have a much greater appreciation of what they are doing).

Not long after getting settled we had four of the most beautiful young aboriginal children come and join us.  For the next hour Adelaide, Isabelle, Bethany and Hannah played with three of them in the sand sharing stories.  Jarad kicked a football with the eldest who spent the time running excitedly back and forth.  With their jet black skin, beaming white smiles and dust encrusted hair their innocence in a world dominated by material possession was a great learning experience for all of us. 

We ended up purchasing a woven basket and didgeridoo which will provide a lasting reminder of today. While we were not keen on leaving we had to make our way back to watch the sun set at Ubirr. With time to spare we did a small rainforest walk at Manngarre.  This would be one to leave off the list of places to visit, especially if you expect to see rainforest. 

But having learnt from the children of Arnhem Land that possessions are not important, rather it is family,  your surrounds and experiences that are of true value.