Day 29: At home on the dirt - Gunlom
It is officially hump day. I have been on the road for 29 days now and am half way through my trip away. Through a quirk of technology (needing to reset work passwords) I can't access work email. As a result I have settled in to the life of travelling and could get used to this concept of not working. I know I may have made some not so nice words against grey nomads (sorry Jean) but I can see I will one day join the procession with a sign on the back of the camper (no still not a caravan) saying "escaping the rat race".
Anyway - on with today. The camp site at Nitmiluk was very enjoyable (read civilised) to the point Kathy was keen to stay an extra night. However with so much to see we had to push on. And we are so glad we did.
Waking early, we walked up to the lookout to watch the sun rise over the Katherine River. It is a hypnotic feeling standing and looking out into the distant green landscape with the calm water below you and the sound of the early morning birds calling as the sun peaked over the horizon. The magic hour of dawn in the Australian bush is a time that many people do not take the effort to experience and they are the pooper for it.
Breaking camp, we were only temporarily leaving Nitmiluk as we re-entered the park to have a stop at Edith falls. Another lovely deep pool at the base of a waterfall with the kids having a splash in the water.
Could it get any better than this. Yes it can!
Heading towards Kakadu National Park the sky changed to a light grey, then darkened as the bush around us was surrounded by red dancing flames slowly consuming the low grasses and shrubs. Above were flocks of Black Kites circling overhead ready to swoop on any poor animal escaping the flames.
These wild fires are the cornerstone of this unique environment which have adapted to the patchwork burning from both traditional owners and the regular lightening strikes over thousands of years. While it was amazing to see nature at work, it scared Adelaide who was asleep and woke to the smell of smoke and flames either side of the road.
Finally we made it to the famous KAK-A-DOOOOOOOOO and the track to Gunlom Falls.
All of a sudden I fealt at home again as we hit the dirt road, and even more exited with a sign reading 4wd only. At last we leave the convoy of caravans behind return to some bush camping and a fire. I was looking forward to camp as I had seen some amazing photos of the pool looking out over the valley. But images do not do justice to the unbelievable work of nature. Perched on top of the escarpment, the series of cascading pools cling to the edge with the water disappearing into the plains below. I have seen afinity edge pools before but nothing like this. As we arrived late in the afternoon there were very few people at the falls. Luckily we decided to pack some emergency beers amd sat and watched the sun go down. The end to another prefect day.
"If only we had an extra night here" said Kathy! A quote I have said many times so far on this trip but well deserved today This is the life!
Ps: note to self. When sun goes down and you have to walk down a very steep rocky cliff face in the dark take a torch.
Pss: I know Kathy likes taking the harder track when 4wding but I didn't think she did it walking as well.
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