Thursday 24 July 2014

Day 48: Canoe vs Croc

Having spent yesterday driving through the sparse woodland and open savannah plains, today was going to be a change exploring Lawn Hill Gorge. Over millions of years the ancient sandstone and limestone rocks have been gradually sculptured by prehistoric rains leaving behind rugged escarpments and gorges. 



To fully experience this we hired a canoe and left early as the suns first light was penetrating the gorge. Paddling through the jade green water, flanked by tall palms and and sheer red sandstone walls either side, the only sound was that of the morning call of the birds and the lapping of water against the canoe. Making our way the 4km paddle up stream we reached Indari Falls.



The green colour of the water is due to the limestone.  This same calcium carbonate is also laid down forming tufa (a brittle rock) creating the cascades, dams and falls.  Alternatively you can believe the Waannyi people who's stories involve Boodjamulla, or rainbow serpent, creating the gorge and its spring fed gullies.

Either way, dragging our canoe up and over one of the falls and entering the upper gorge, is a natural and spiritual wonder. 



Returning to Indari Falls, we went for a well deserved swim.  We also ventured behind the cascading waterfalls, foaming white water at our feet creating a natural spa bath.



Disconcertingly, paddling not far downstream we came across a freshwater crocodile, 3 metres in length sunning it self on the bank.  Getting a little too close, it filled it self with air, bearing its crooked needle like teeth giving us a warning in no uncertain terms who was boss.  With only a thin layer of plastic between him and us we took a hasty retreat leaving him to enjoy the late morning sun.

Further downstream we came across a second much smaller, but no less sharp teeth, croc sunning on a log.  By this stage the thoughts of going back in for a swim where quickly disappearing.



After an afternoon rest we ventured back out on the Island Stack walk which followed the top of the gorge.  After a steep climb the track weaves through the dark red rocks, lime green spinifex and olive sticky hop bush, all three forming a tapestry of colour.





Being the successful hunters we are, we discovered an echidna hiding amongst the spinifex, a combination of spines that would see any preditor thing twice.  We then watched the small Gilbert's Dragon sprinting from rock to rock, occasionally lifting its arm in a waving motion.  It is for this reason it's colloquial name is the Ta-ta lizard.  



As the sun slowly set it was also finally time to say Ta-ta to Lawn Hill.  Next stop.  The Isa.

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